Yuki and Chiyomi Fujii use traditional techniques to grow some of Japan’s most admired wasabi.
Photograph by Jonny Bierman
Fiery wasabi is key to Japanese cuisine, and Yuki and Chiyomi Fujii’s crop is highly prized among the country’s top chefs.
Story and photographs byJonny Bierman
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
“Wasabi Village is a passion project,” says Yukimitsu (Yuki) Fujii as he climbs the stone terraces, wasabi plants sprawling out on either side. The terraces were constructed over a century ago and, along with his wife Chiyomi Fujii, Yuki is dedicated to growing organic wasabi here using traditional techniques.
Two decades ago, while working corporate jobs in Shizuoka — two hours by train from Tokyo — Yuki and Chiyomi would often escape the city and get out into nature. It was during one of their weekend hiking trips to the mountainous Izu Peninsula that they stumbled upon some neglected terraces. Eager to breathe new life into this once-forgotten farm, they contacted the landowner, who agreed to a long-term lease. Gradually, over weekends, Chiyomi and Yuki restored the stone terraces, constructed bridges, pruned the wild foliage and reinvigorated an age-old tradition. Four years ago, they left their jobs and home in Shizuoka, investing everything in the wasabi farm.
“Wasabi is very delicate and difficult to cultivate,” says Yuki. “You need shade and consistent spring water. The plants don’t like fluctuations in temperature; it takes a very special spot to grow wasabi.” Wasabi Village’s secret is the constant supply of pure spring water from Mount Fuji, a short distance away to the north. The volcano acts as a giant water filter, purifying precipitation and releasing it across the region via hot and cold springs.
The couple harvest their crop by hand, and their organic wasabi, renowned for its purity and nutritional richness, is highly sought-after by some of Japan’s top restaurants. However, a pandemic-induced slump in orders encouraged Yuki and Chiyomi to rethink their farm, relaunching it to offer courses, tours and stays in four luxury caravans imported from the US, each with its own private hot tub. Restaurant sales have since recovered, but these additions to the business remain.
“The pandemic ignited a newfound passion among the Japanese for glamping experiences, so we transformed our farm into an overnight nature retreat,” says Chiyomi, who harvests wasabi with overnight visitors. “Guests come from big cities needing an escape to the mountains — just like we once did.” Wasabi Village offers stays with a tour (in Japanese only) from ¥38,000 (£207) for two people. Kodo Travel can arrange three-day English-language guided trips that include Wasabi Village from ¥280,000 (£1,526) per person.
Published in Issue 23 (spring 2023) of Food by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
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