This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
On the southern tip of Vancouver Island, sailboats bob in Victoria’s harbour and chateau-style buildings stand beside leafy parks. The gentle pace of life in British Columbia’s compact capital is part of its appeal, yet it’s far from a provincial backwater. An easy journey from Vancouver, the city has excellent neighbourhood restaurants, breweries and coffee shops, while its museums and galleries showcase the region’s Indigenous heritage. It’s also surrounded by wild landscapes and makes a natural jumping-off point for whale-watching.
Presiding over the harbour, the British Columbia Parliament Buildings are the city’s centrepiece, an 1890s icon whose marbled interiors are open for free daytime tours. Across the street, the Fairmont Empress is one of Canada’s grandest hotels, with Elizabeth II and Rudyard Kipling among its storied guests. Afternoon tea in the opulent Lobby Lounge is one of Victoria’s quintessential experiences.
Through first-class exhibits, the Royal BC Museum delves deep into the province’s natural past (look out for the life-sized woolly mammoth), as well as its rich First Nations heritage. There are more than 225,000 artefacts in its collection, from masks belonging to the Haida people to traditional clothing from the Nlaka’pamux. Adjoining the museum is Thunderbird Park, named after the legendary bird and home to some of the museum’s most spectacular totem poles.
There’s much to discover in lively Downtown. Bibliophiles will love browsing the shelves at Munro’s Books, a shop housed in a former bank, with its coffered ceiling and spectacular painted textiles by local artist Carole Sabiston. The Mark Loria Gallery, meanwhile, specialises in contemporary Canadian Indigenous art.
Victoria’s Chinatown is the oldest in Canada, home to retro neon signs and restaurants such as Don Mee, which has served dim sum for more than 80 years. Fan Tan Alley claims to be one of the world’s narrowest streets; squeeze along the lantern-festooned lane for a range of quirky boutiques, from Saltspring Soapworks, which sells natural body-care products, to Just Matcha, which stocks premium-grade tea. Close by is Habit Coffee, a laid-back cafe with local art on its exposed-brick walls and Victorian suppliers on its menu — stop by to pick up beans from Bows Coffee Roasters or teas from Earth’s Herbal, both based in the city.
There’s more BC produce on offer at Wind Cries Mary, a moodily lit Downtown spot where the province’s oysters, mussels and salmon prop up a menu of sharing plates and cocktails. On the harbourfront, Red Fish Blue Fish is the place to go for jerk fish poutine, a fiery take on the Canadian classic.
If brunch is on the cards, try John’s Place, a kitsch, old-school spot serving waffles, pancakes and ‘Bat Out Of Hell meatloaf and eggs’, or head for the bubblegum-pink Floyd’s Diner in James Bay, where asking for ‘The Mahoney’ will get you whatever takes the chef’s fancy. For a tipple, Downtown’s Citrus & Cane mixes killer cocktails with a tropical twist (try the ‘ooh dat’s spicy’, made with Sons of Vancouver chilli vodka), while Boomtown serves a raft of BC porters and pale ales in its beer garden.
But there’s no resisting the call of the wild, with the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail, Goldstream Provincial Park and The Butchart Gardens within easy reach of the city. Dallas Road is also worth a drive or cycle — start in Fisherman’s Wharf Park, near the harbour, and wind east for six miles past beaches, bays and Beacon Hill Park, home to the world’s tallest freestanding totem pole at 128ft, before calling at the Oak Bay Beach Hotel. It makes an elegant stop for a glass of wine from BC’s Okanagan Valley, with views across to the Chatham Islands. For whale-watching, try Eagle Wing Tours; between June and October is the best time to spot Victoria’s marine residents.
Three wildlife spotting adventures in Victoria
1. Juan de Fuca marine Trail
Keep eyes peeled for black bears on this 29-mile route through dense forests, over river gorges and along secluded beaches. It takes three to five days to complete, and there are chances to refuel at rustic diners along the way.
2. Goldstream Provincial Park
A naturalist’s paradise, this park has quiet forest walking trails, plunging waterfalls and a challenging climb to the top of the 1,375ft-tall Mount Finlayson, with bald eagles screeching overhead. Autumn sees the spectacular salmon run, too.
3. Eagle Wing Tours
This family-run company offers whale-watching trips in the Salish Sea with a team of guides. Seeing a pod of orcas or a humpback is a true highlight of a trip to Victoria, but ospreys, sea otters and elephant seals can also be spotted among the craggy islets on these three- to four-hour trips.
How to do it:
From Vancouver international airport, Victoria is a 90-minute ferry ride, followed by a 30-minute drive.
Stay at the historic Fairmont Empress, which has lovely harbour views. From C$319 (£186), room only.
Published in the June 2024 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
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