Travel
In this small French resort, cross-country skiing is king. So is Bessans the perfect place for a beginner to master the art of biathlon?
ByMegan Hughes
Published January 16, 2024
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Set between the Vanoise National Park and the Italian border, Bessans is a small resort with a big reputation. Its large, flat, high-altitude plateau has become something of a hub for Nordic skiers, the terrain perfectly primed for cross-country. Not only does the resort offer over 83 miles of dedicated cross-country routes, Bessans is also home to the Haute Maurienne Vanoise International Biathlon Centre (MHVIBC), a modern stadium dedicated to one of today’s fastest-growing winter sports.
Combining cross-country skiing and rifle shooting, modern biathlon has developed from a Norwegian military training exercise to one of the most popular winter sports, with 11 dedicated Winter Olympic events ranging from sprints to group relays. As beginners to biathlon, however, our group needs to get to grips with the basics first. We start with some simple balance exercises, although I find myself splayed on the ground more than once. I’d hoped that decades of downhill skiing would set me up for success on the cross-country trails, but so far, I’m being proved wrong.
The difference in hardware is the first hurdle. Cross-country skis are incredibly lightweight, just a few inches wide and without metal edges that grip. For those used to downhill/alpine skiing, this lack of edge can be tricky. “When the downhill stops, you’ll stop,” says my instructor Auriane Delecour, plainly. “Think of it as a nice slidey walk.”
Historically, cross-country skiing took place along pre-routed tracks, with skiers lifting the heel of their boot away from the ski in a forward stride-like movement. Today, the preferred technique is ‘skating’ — pushing the skis out in a V-shape, using poles to push off as you shift your weight between feet.
It’s more difficult than I expected, but at a stage in life when my regular ski days often see more gentle blue runs than thigh-burning blacks, it’s refreshing to push myself and learn something new. “It’s a different way to enjoy the mountain,” says Auriane. “You can really connect with your surroundings.”
A few hours later, we’re beginning to feel more confident. This is the point we’re given a gun. The weapon of choice is a .22 pellet rifle, which is waiting for us at the HMVIBC. A vast shooting gallery in the shadow of the Alps, this stadium has seen plenty of international action across its 30 targets since opening in 1988.
A series of drills focuses our activity on everything from breathing and trigger pressure to the correct shooting posture, both prone and standing. Competition heats up as we hit target after target and, before long, we’re off to combine our new skills on a full circuit. Even after one small lap, I understand why cross-country skiing is lauded as an effective form of cardiovascular exercise. When breathing hard, hitting the target becomes a real challenge.
At least we’ve earned a hearty lunch. At Le Chalet de Séraphin, a rustic, family-run restaurant, we’re served steaming plates of Savoyard specialities, highlights of which include farcement — a savoury yet sweet cake-like dish of potato, bacon and dried fruit — and a silky-smooth cheese-filled ravioli.
It’s the perfect opportunity to debrief on our action-packed weekend. Over the past few days, we’ve been skiing, snowshoeing, ice climbing, moon biking and even ice floating. But of all the experiences, there’s one memory that will be coming home with me, quite literally. I’ve pocketed my shot-riddled paper target, with its one perfect bullseye.
How to do it:
Bessans is four hours from Paris by train, and just under 10 hours by road from Calais.
Chambéry, Grenoble, Geneva, Lyon and Turin airports are two to three hours by road.
Le Relais des Deux Cols in Val Cenis offers double rooms from €99 (£85), B&B. relais-des-2-cols.fr
One-hour biathlon experiences from €79 (£68) for two people.
More info.
This story was created with the support of Savoie Mont Blanc and Haute Maurienne Vanoise tourist boards.
Published in the Winter Sports 2023/24 guide, distributed with the December 2023 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
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