This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
The 900-odd islands, islets and skerries amassed off the western and northern coasts of mainland Scotland are an eclectic bunch. In the north, the North Sea archipelagos of Shetland and Orkney have Viking history and names derived from Old Norse. To the west, the Atlantic-bound Outer Hebrides remain the stronghold of the Gaelic language, which is still spoken everywhere on the islands. And then there are the Inner Hebrides, tucked in closer to the mainland and running from whisky-soaked Islay in the south to the toothy peaks of Skye in the north.
It’s a region where connection matters. Some destinations have easy links to mainland communities; more ferries and flights mean more people and, generally, a more cosmopolitan feel. Others are flung further out to sea, islands off islands reached only via multiple ferries, and with a wholly different character.
At times, this topography has led to heartbreak. Take islands such as St Kilda and Mingulay, in the Outer Hebrides: home to small but determined local communities for millennia, both had to be eventually abandoned in the last century due to a gradual loss of self-sufficiency.
But it can also provide part of the charm, for it makes the journey part of the experience. A highlight of any visit to the islands is likely to be the trip out to them. Skye, for example, can be reached via a swooping road bridge that climbs to 115ft above Loch Alsh. If you fly into Barra, gateway to the Outer Hebrides, you’ll touch down right on a beach — the only such landing in the world.
Indeed, the beaches are a highlight across the archipelagos. Many look like they could be found on a screensaver, all buttery sand and aquamarine water. Some stretches of coastline are so sparsely populated and little visited, you might romp down their dunes and make the day’s first footprints.
Wildlife flourishes throughout, too. Expect to spot eagles overhead and puffins on the cliffs, plus all manner of marine life, from seals and dolphins to basking sharks and even whales. This also means you’ll find just-caught seafood on the menu everywhere, from cosy restaurants to village pubs.
We’ve picked some of the best trips to discover this region of wind and waves, but wherever you travel, there’s always another island waiting on the horizon. The temptation to carry on is as strong as the whisky.
Itinerary 1: Far North & Orkney
Start point: Inverness
End point: Inverness
Distance travelled: 374 miles
Average length: 7 days
Orkney is unlike anywhere else in Scotland. That’s partly down to its history: it was under Norwegian and Danish control for hundreds of years until the 15th century, and many Orcadians still claim Scandinavian ancestry. It’s also down to its location, across the Pentland Firth from Scotland’s northeast tip, with the largest town, Kirkwall, standing more than 200 miles north of Edinburgh.
Despite feeling far removed, it’s just 90 minutes by ferry from the Scottish mainland. By renting a car and using Inverness as your start and end point, you can easily combine exploring Orkney with a spin around Scotland’s far north, where the Flow Country is a highlight. It’s the world’s most intact and extensive blanket bog system, a peaty, pool-dotted expanse whose colour palette of mossy browns and earthy greens seems to shift like a kaleidoscope as clouds scud overhead.
Once you reach Orkney via ferry, the landscape is dominated by the North Sea, glinting on the horizon and pounding the shoreline, never too far from the road. On Mainland, Orkney’s largest island, a straightforward loop takes in the archipelago’s best-known sights, many of them historically significant, including the ancient village of Skara Brae — part of Orkney’s UNESCO-listed group of Neolithic sites — and Scapa Flow, where you can dive among shipwrecks. On Hoy, to the south of Mainland and accessible via ferry, one of the UK’s tallest sea stacks provides an easy marker for the end of your trip.
Highlights in the Far North & Orkney
1. Forsinard Flows
Hire a car in Inverness and head north to Scotland’s Flow Country, an expanse of rare blanket bog that’s currently being considered for UNESCO World Heritage status. At its heart is an RSPB reserve where you can walk the mile-long Dubh Lochan boardwalk, spotting lizards, frogs and dragonflies at ground level, and hen harriers and golden plovers overhead. A viewing tower affords views across the peatland.
2.Skara Brae
Take the 90-minute car ferry from Scrabster, on the mainland, to Stromness, in Orkney, then find Skara Brae huddled next to a blustery beach. We know Neolithic people had a form of fitted furniture thanks to a storm that hit Orkney’s Mainland in 1850. It uncovered this immaculately preserved 5,000-year-old village, where nine surviving homes are divided into clear rooms and feature stone dressers and box-beds. The visitor centre displays artefacts such as jewellery and tools.
Kirkwall is Orkney’s largest town and home to its main harbour.
Photograph by Mark Ferguson, Alamy
3. Kirkwall
A 25-minute drive east takes you to Kirkwall, home to Orkney’s main harbour and airport and liveliest pub scene. You’ll also find Britain’s most northerly cathedral, the yellow-and-red sandstone St Magnus, founded in the 12th century. The town is the most bankable spot for a proper Orcadian live music session: pop into Skipper’s, The Bothy Bar or the Auld Motor Hoose to find out what’s on.
4. Scapa Flow
Once a British naval base, Scapa Flow played a key role in both world wars. Today, these sheltered waters just south of Mainland are littered with shipwrecks, from blockships sunk to keep the Germans at bay to the German High Seas Fleet, deliberately scuttled here in 1919. Take a snorkel safari for a glimpse of these wrecks or get closer to them on a scuba dive with Kraken Diving.
5. Old Man of Hoy
For the last leg of the trip, take the car ferry from Houton, on Mainland, to Lyness, on Hoy, then drive the 25 minutes to Rackwick. From here, hike along the cliffs — spotting fulmars and great skuas as you go — to the Old Man of Hoy, on the island’s west coast. This 450ft-tall red sandstone sea stack is best seen in late afternoon, when the sun brings out its rosy colour. Allow three hours return for the hike.
How to do it:
Wilderness Scotland has a six-night Wilderness Walking Orkney Islands group tour from £2,575 per person, including meals.
For a unique experience, the Traigh Mhòr beach is the only one in the world to double as a runway for scheduled flights.
Photograph by iStockphoto, Getty Images
Itinerary 2: Outer Hebrides
Start point: Barra
End point: Stornoway
Distance travelled: 137 miles
Average length: 10 days
Some of Scotland’s finest scenery lies far off its western coast, across the crashing waters of the Minch strait on the fringes of Europe. If the climate were warmer, the Outer Hebrides would surely be overrun with sunseekers, home as they are to white sand beaches that could stand in for the Caribbean. Instead, with the average summer high a cool 16C, this 130-mile-long string of islands remains quiet year-round — and fiercely traditional.
The archipelago is the last stronghold of the Scottish Gaelic language, once the dominant tongue throughout most of Scotland. It sets the tone for encounters with islanders still engaged in traditional crofting, fishing and weaving, producing the world-famous Harris tweed — still handwoven using island-spun wool — and some of the tastiest seafood.
This is a journey to take your time over, making diversions to local art galleries and near-hidden Neolithic sites. Start by flying from Glasgow to Barra, then hop between South Uist, North Uist, Harris and Lewis via ferry and causeway, eventually flying back from Stornoway. Along the way, the road glides above the Atlantic, ribbons around rocky bays and hugs the foot of lofty, heather-cloaked mountains.
Highlights in the Outer Hebrides
1. Traigh Mhòr
This beach, on the northern tip of Barra, is the only one in the world to double as a runway for scheduled flights. Begin your Hebridean adventure with a memorable touchdown, watching the sands rushing up to meet you as you descend over the Atlantic. Pick up a vehicle from Car Hire Hebrides and drive the 20 minutes to the main village, Castlebay. Its huddle of homes gazes out at Kisimul Castle, a fortress atop an islet and the only medieval castle remaining in the Outer Hebrides.
2. Beinn Langais
Take the ferry from Castlebay to Lochboisdale, on South Uist, then drive 50 minutes to North Uist and check in to Langass Lodge, a former shooting lodge. Pull on some boots for a two-mile circular trail, taking in the 5,000-year-old Barpa Langais chambered cairn, Pobull Fhinn stone circle and Beinn Langais hill. North Uist is slung so low that the latter’s 300ft summit rewards you with a panorama of peatland and sinewy sea lochs.
3. St Kilda
Continue north via road and ferry to Leverburgh, on the island of Harris, your base for the next couple of days. This is the departure point for day trips to the St Kilda archipelago, which rises sharply from the water 40 miles to the west. Once home to a thriving community, it now stands abandoned, the traditional Hebridean blackhouses gently crumbling. While it’s officially uninhabited, some life remains here, with almost a million seabirds — including the UK’s largest colony of puffins — cloaking the sheer cliffs and enormous sea stacks.
The Calanais Standing Stones were erected 5,000 years ago, and are older than Stonehenge.
Photograph by Jacek Kadaj, Getty Images
4. Golden Road
Starting around 30 minutes’ drive north of Leverburgh, the Golden Road is hailed as one of the isles’ best drives. Clinging to Harris’s eastern coast, its single track loops around sea lochs, the waterline occasionally broken by seals’ glossy crowns. Check out local art at Skoon Gallery & Studio and Finsbay Gallery and make time for the Harris tweed exhibition in Drinishader to learn about the beloved cloth.
5. Calanais Standing stones
Swap Harris for Lewis with an hour-long drive north from Drinishader to the Calanais Standing Stones, a cross-shaped stone circle older than Stonehenge. We’ll probably never know why they were erected here some 5,000 years ago — astronomical observatory? Site of Neolithic worship? — but the intrigue has contributed to myths and legends. The mountains and lochs around it make it all a glorious sight.
6. Uig Sands
Drive another 30 minutes to get to this blissfully quiet beach, then hike across miles of pristine sands washed by teal waters to work up an appetite. Lunch is at Uig Sands restaurant: nab a window seat and order the Uig Lodge smoked salmon, then linger a night or two in one of four chic bedrooms, all of which have private patios and views across the bay.
Published in the June 2024 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
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